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Start in Tuscany with the luscious Muraccio, a layered and textured ‘Super Tuscan’ from a tiny DOC that has only one wine … yes this is pretty exclusive! Head to Rome and do as the Romans do by drinking the wonderful Antonio Federici Vino Rosso – it’s delicious. Then, head to sun-drenched Puglia in Italy’s boot for two luscious Primitivos and fabulous Cabernet Primitivo blend layered with dark fruit and spice. Last, you’ve an exciting Frappato from Sicily 100% organic and bubbling over with juicy red cherry fruit –this is a must try!
If you’re a fan of the sort of reds you can only get from ancient, ultra-sunny vineyards, then chances are you’ll love Il Brutto. So low-yielding and unprofitable were these heirloom Negroamaro and Primitivo vines that the growers in Puglia were contemplating bringing in the bulldozer to rip them out, so they could plant something more profitable. However, champion of the region and its great traditions, Angelo Maci (triple awarded 'Winemaker of the Year') persuaded them that the fruit of these old vines could make a magnificent rich red. The vines’ twisted trunks may be ugly (‘brutto’) to outsiders, but they’re things of beauty to those in the know. Smooth, full and packed with spicy fruit – big, ripe bramble and damson flavours with lavish herbal spice. This treasured red is a treat with hearty dishes.
In Italy's deep south, Puglia offers “undreamed-of character and potential” (Hugh Johnson) and “reds that give you a lot of wine for your money” (Decanter). Take Pillastro Nero. It's the work of champion of the region Angelo Maci, who started the Cantine Due Palme cellar in 1989 to save the growers and the region's traditions. Since then they've been Winery of the Year three times, while Angelo Maci has multiple winemaker titles and a Lifetime Achievement award. This premium edition uses Cabernet and Primitivo grapes from 80-year-old vines, all trained the special Alberello Pugliese way for great depth of flavour. Ageing in French oak barrels adds spice to this rich, weighty red. Decant and serve with roast meats or a rich pasta dish.
La Parrina is a tiny, very beautiful DOC, situated on a spit of land that juts out from the Tuscan coast to form the Orbetello peninsula. It's part of the renowned Maremma zone and only one estate exists there – La Parrina. It boasts 200 hectares of land, only 60 of which are planted to vines – mostly Sangiovese, with pockets of interlopers Cabernet and Merlot. Originally a wedding gift to a Florentine banker, it's been in the Spinola family since 1830. Dr Franca Spinola is at the helm today, championing biodiversity and great wines from her winemaker, Valeria Vittori. Muraccio is a classic Super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet, barrique-matured for 10 months. Ripe black cherry, plum, herbal notes and ground pepper. Full-bodied and powerful, it'll age well. Open early and decant.
We first met Dino when he began restoring his grandfather's earthquake-struck vineyard, high in the Sicilian hills. You loved the wine it made - Tenuta Fenice. Not one to rest on his laurels, he's started another ambitious new project called w/o - wine made without compromise. He chose native Frappato as his champion, all grown organically thanks to Sicily's warm, dry climate and Dino's diligence. It's bottled in 100% recycled glass too, known as 'wild' glass. You may notice a little variation in colour, perhaps a few tiny bubbles. All part of the charm, as is the delicious red berry and cherry fruit that greets you on the aroma and continues through on the bright, juicy palate. Try chilled solo, or with pizza or pesto pasta.
Winery Feudi di San Gregorio has helped spearhead a renaissance in southern Italian winemaking, in particular the use of the region’s superb native grapes. Made from Primitivo (the same grape as California’s Zinfandel), this wine is from Gioia del Colle DOC in Puglia. Gioia del Colle can be translated as “jewels of the hill” and the DOC is a 400-metre-high plateau considered to be the homeland of the Primitivo grape. Sea breezes from the Adriatic and Ionian give the grapes much needed relief from the warm Italian sun, creating rich, velvety wines. An organic Primitivo packed with sumptuous berry fruits, a mouth-coating texture and spice kick. Easily enjoyed on its own, but pairs beautifully with spaghetti Bolognese and eggplant parmigiano.
Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome. But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes. From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family. A silky, smooth, easy red.
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