Primitivo

Primitivo is a black-skinned grape variety grown in southern Italy’s Puglia region. It is known for making dry, full-bodied, inky-coloured wines with high alcohol content – a treat for anyone who loves big, bold reds. Look for ripe notes of hedge berries, black orchard fruits, and savoury dried herbs and liquorice flavours. Primitivo also makes fruity rosés and fortified wines.

Its name means ‘early one’, referring to the grape’s tendency to ripen earlier than other varieties. Primitivo grapes thrive in warm climates, where they can fully ripen on the vine and develop high sugar levels.

The Primitivo grape is genetically identical to Zinfandel, which is famously cultivated in California as one of the state’s key grape varieties.

Primitivo is mainly grown in southern Italy, particularly in Puglia (the area that makes up the “heel” of Italy’s famous “boot”). The region’s hot Mediterranean climate is ideal for growing Primitivo grapes, as it allows them to ripen sooner and more consistently on the vine while developing their signature sweetness and deep fruit flavours.

Primitivo di Manduria DOC, Salento IGP and Gioia del Colle DOC are three key areas within Puglia known for their Primitivo wines, which are made in traditional dry and sweeter styles.

Primitivo is also grown in Croatia, Mexico, South Australia, South Africa and France’s Côtes de Thongue region.

The Primitivo grape is genetically identical to Zinfandel, which is grown in California’s Lodi, Sonoma County, Napa Valley AVA and Mendocino County regions. Both are descendants of the Croatian grape Tribidrag, also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski.

Primitivo grapes typically create robust, full-bodied red wines famous for their intense flavours and high alcohol content. Their velvety texture carries notes of black orchard fruits, bramble berries, and savoury, earthy hints. The wine’s intense fruitiness can sometimes be mistaken for sweetness, but Primitivo wines are typically made in a dry style with a moderate acidity. Their low-medium levels of tannins make them a smooth, easy-drinking option.

Primitivo wines can vary depending on where the grapes are grown. The southern Italian sun helps create Primitivo wines with a high alcohol content and ripe fruitiness. The region’s varying soil types also affect the wine, thanks to the variety’s ‘terroir expressive’ nature.

As a genetically identical grape, Californian Zinfandel has plenty in common with its Italian cousin but has riper, more jammy dark fruit notes and hints of clove and cinnamon. Old Vine Zinfandels are particularly prized for their concentrated flavours and complexity.

While Primitivo and Zinfandel are the same grape, their style can vary dramatically, shaped by climate, winemaking skills and regional tradition.

Primitivo wines are known for their deep, dark flavours reflected in their inky colour and rich, velvety texture. Some of the most common notes can include:

• Plum
• Blackberry
• Black cherry
• Strawberry
• Black pepper
• Liquorice
• Dried herbs
• Chocolate

Secondary notes can develop after the wine has been aged in oak barrels. These include:

• Smoke
• Sweet tobacco
• Vanilla
• Cinnamon

Several factors – including location, ageing, and vintage – must be considered when selecting the perfect Primitivo, but personal preference will always be the most important.

Some of the best Primitivo wines come from the Primitivo di Manduria DOC in Puglia. Under strict regulations, these Primitivo blends must contain at least 85% Primitivo.

Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale is a naturally sweet wine, not generally fortified. While fortified styles are not standard for this DOC, they make a delicious dessert wine that can be found in the small town of Manduria near the Ionian Coast. Some excellent Primitivo wines, including Pillastro Primitivo and Pillastro Selezione d'Oro, carry a simple Puglia IGT regional classification on their labels. 

Depending on the winemaker’s preferences, Primitivo is aged using oak barrels or stainless steel vats. Ageing in oak can add complex aromas and flavours, including sweet tobacco, herbs and smoke notes. However, not all Primitivo wines are made using oak. If you prefer a fresher style of wine, look for Primitivo wines that undergo minimal oak ageing or are primarily aged in stainless steel tanks during fermentation.

Vintage can also be a factor in finding the perfect Primitivo for your taste. If you prefer rich, full wines, you might want to look for an older bottle from a warmer season.

Thanks to its bold flavours and full body, Primitivo can stand up to a number of rich, hearty dishes. In its native Apulia, it pairs beautifully with local dishes like Orecchiette con le Braciole – a pasta dish with slow-cooked beef rolls. Primitivo’s intense fruit character and soft tannins balance the rich flavours of meat and tomato sauce in the dish.

Primitivo is also a delicious choice to pair with roast lamb, smoky barbecued ribs, grilled eggplant and tomato-based pizzas. The wine’s dark fruit flavours complement the meat and tomatoes’ savoury char and natural sweetness. The wine’s high alcohol content and robust structure also provide balance when matched with hearty dishes.

Primitivo is best served slightly below room temperature, at around 16-18°C to highlight its bold flavours and soft tannins.

Serve Primitivo in a large red wine glass to allow it to breathe. This glass design will also help to funnel the wine’s rich aromas to your nose as you sip.

If your Primitivo is very young and tannic, consider decanting it for around an hour before serving to help soften the tannins and allow the aromas to open up.